Zion, Bryce, Capitol Reef National Park & More (Las Vegas to Southern Utah)
This post covers a ton of great destinations across Las Vegas and Southern Utah visited during the first two weeks of November 2021. The temperatures were cool/comfortable in Las Vegas, and colder in Southern Utah in exchange for fewer tourists. Please use the page links below if you prefer to read about a specific place rather than the entire post:
LAS VEGAS
Valley of Fire State Park (45 minutes east) and Red Rock Canyon National Preservation Area (30 minutes west) are easily accessible from central Las Vegas. Both parks charge $15 per vehicle for entry. We explored these areas as daytrips returning in hiking clothes covered in sand and dirt to the confusion of all other humans in Las Vegas.
Valley of Fire:
Fire Wave to Seven Wonders to White Dome (3.2 mile loop AllTrails) features two small slot canyons and a movie set from 1966. Beautiful terrain. We hiked a U-shaped loop from the outer top right to inner top right.
Rainbow Vista (1 mile roundtrip AllTrails) concludes with a great lookout into the canyon.
Red Rock Canyon National Preservation Area:
Red Rock Canyon features a 13-mile scenic drive which provides access to some of the hikes below and more. At certain times of year, online timed-entry reservations are required to secure access to the scenic drive.
Turtlehead Peak (5 miles, 2000ft gain to 6250ft elevation AllTrails) provides views of Las Vegas, Lake Mead, Valley of Fire, and more. A steep and challenging rock scramble that is certainly worth the effort. It took 90 minutes for us to reach the summit and less on the descent.
Ice Box Canyon (2.6 miles roundtrip AllTrails) is an absolute blast. An elaborate boulder scramble surrounded by high cliffs on either side concluding with a breathtaking waterfall. Multiple times we thought we had reached a deadend, but just keep going and find a path forward no matter what until you get to the waterfall at which point you can no longer advance. The waterfall was dry when we went and yet the feature was still beautiful to behold. Took about 90 minutes round trip. Finished after dark with headlamps.
Kraft Boulders - Did not do but should be spectacular. A popular place for bouldering as well. AllTrails
SOUTHERN UTAH
The two hour drive from Las Vegas to St. George, Utah on I-15 N passes through the Virgin River Canyon in northwestern Arizona about 30 minutes before reaching St. George. To the extent you can make the drive during daylight hours, this scenic canyon drive is a breathtaking introduction to what lies ahead.
St George serves as an excellent home base for daytrips to Snow Canyon State Park (15min), Kolob Canyons (30min), and Zion National Park (60min). It also boasts many excellent restaurants including the Painted Pony which had absolutely spectacular food and service. (Note that Utah is one hour ahead of Las Vegas).
An overnight trip, however, is best for visiting Bryce Canyon National Park and Capitol Reef National Park. Rise in St. George in the early morning to visit Bryce (2hr 20min) until the late afternoon, and then drive an additional two hours to Torrey, UT for dinner and an overnight. The next morning visit Capitol Reef (15min from Torrey) and either drive 3hr 20min back to St George that evening or spend an extra night in Torrey.
Snow Canyon State Park:
Lava Flow Trail (1.5 miles roundtrip) is an out-and-back that passes multiple lava tubes. I believe at least one of them goes on for 50ft underground (and would be best with a headlamp). This 1.5 mile out-and-back begins at the Lava Flow Trailhead. The turn-around point is Lava Tube #3.
If you are interested in a 3.2 mile roundtrip that allows you to explore more than the lava tubes, begin at the Butterfly Trailhead instead and do this larger 2.8 mile loop (AllTrails) incorporating parts of the Petrified Dunes trail, and when you reach Lava Tube #3, walk the additional 0.2 miles to see Lava Tube #1 and #2 before returning to the loop.
Jenny’s Canyon (0.5 miles rountrip AllTrails) is an easy hike into a beautiful slot canyon. It’s not very long but pretty deep and a nice reward for such a short walk. The “owl” rock at the trailhead is both cool and tempting to climb.
Kolob Canyons:
Quick Logistics: Kolob Canyons is a district of Zion National Park located 45 minutes northwest of the main park, and for all intents and purposes should be treated as a separate visit. Driving times from St. George:
Kolob Canyon Visitor Center: 30min
Lava Point via Kolob Terrace Road: 1hr 20 min
Zion National Park Visitor Center: 55 minutes
Travelling between these three locations requires backtracking on the roads highlighted below. There are no roads connecting them within the park.
Kolob Canyons Visitor Center
A beautiful 5 mile scenic drive begins at the Kolob Canyons Visitor Center and ends at the Timber Creek Overlook Trailhead (1 mile roundtrip AllTrails). This short hike offers a stunning view of the Kolob Canyons and Zion peaks as well as the majestic plateau of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. It is such an unexpected surprise and feels as if you can see for hundreds of miles with no sign of humans. Pure beauty.
This side of Kolob Canyons is the starting point for many advanced hikes including the Kolob Arch (15 miles roundtrip AllTrails), one of the world’s longest arches, which could be fun in the future.
Lava Point / Kolob Terrace Road
Kolob Terrace Road is a separate scenic drive providing access to canyoneering and advanced hiking including the Left Fork Subway (Bottom Up) hike, which I hope to do in the future. Towards the end of the road is Lava Point with a beautiful view of Zion.
Zion National Park:
National Park Entry Pass: Most national parks charge $35 per vehicle for a 7-day pass. If you plan on visiting longer than 7 days and/or visiting more than one national park over the next 12 months, the Interagency / “America the Beautiful” Annual Pass costs about $80 and provides unlimited access to 2,000 federal recreation sites including all national parks. You can purchase the annual pass online in advance or in person at most of these sites.
Shuttle System at Zion National Park:
There are two free bus shuttles associated with Zion.
The Springdale Shuttle operates between the town of Springdale, UT just outside the entrance to the park and the Zion National Park Visitor Center inside the park. The town of Springdale boasts restaurants, lodging, visitor centers, gift shops and outfitters. Parking your car in Springdale can cost as much as $35 for the day (Avoid this by getting to the park early.)
The Zion Shuttle originates at the Zion National Park Visitor Center inside the park and transports visitors in a loop to half a dozen stops along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive. For most of the year, shuttles are the only permitted vehicles on Zion Canyon Scenic Drive.
Click here for a recent map of shuttle stops, hikes and more.
If you arrive early enough, you are allowed to park your car (for free less the standard park entry) in the large parking lot at the Zion National Park Visitor Center and skip the Springdale shuttle. A helpful tip at the entrance gate if signs/rangers say the lot is full is to pretend you are only going to the visitor center. (There are in fact 15-minute parking spaces right outside the visitor center). Often once you reach the parking lot itself there are a few open parking spaces from the constant “revolving door” of people entering/leaving the park and you will have saved yourself a lot of time.
Hikes in Zion National Park:
Riverside Walk (2 miles roundtrip AllTrails). This paved out-and-back follows the edge of the Virgin River until it meets the entrance to the famous Narrows. Beautiful scenery and occasional wildlife on the opposite bank. Ideal for families. The trailhead is located at the last Zion shuttle stop (Temple of Sinawava) about 30 minutes from the Visitor Center.
Canyon Overlook Trail (1 mile roundtrip AllTrails). Scramble with railings and wooden boards along the edge of cliffs culminating in a stunning overlook. A small adventure with a beautiful payoff for such a short hike.
This is one of the few trails not along Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, which means you can drive to the trailhead. An enchanting drive east from the Visitor Center culminates in the 1.1 mile Mount Carmel Tunnel built through the mountain in 1930. The most convenient parking lot is located immediately to the right upon exiting the eastern side of the tunnel and is directly opposite the trail entrance on your left. If this lot is full, there is additional parking further east along the road.
Angels Landing (4.4 miles roundtrip 1600ft elevation gain AllTrails) is one of the most popular hikes in Zion. A vertical chain-linked rock scramble with spectacular views throughout. We went on a Monday in November and started the hike at 8:40am. It took 90 minutes to get to the top and was not too crowded. Spent 30 minutes at the top. Descent was faster. The majority of the hike consists of steep switchbacks that can be physically demanding and the latter portion of the hike is lined with chains following precipitous cliff edges and ridgelines to the summit. It is an advanced hike due to the pitch, rock scramble, and “high anxiety” although anyone in decent physical condition without a fear of heights will be fine. The chains are handrails and not required to make the ascent.
After we finished, we walked the tree-lined Grotto Trail (0.6 miles, AllTrails) to the beautiful Zion Lodge and had lunch on the patio at the Red Rock Grill. An old giant Cottonwood tree holds a distinguished place at the center of the lawn outside the Grill creating the feeling of a university campus. After lunch we hiked the Lower Emeralds Pool (1.4 miles roundtrip AllTrails) which concluded with another pleasant view.
East Mesa Trail to Observation Point (7 miles roundtrip AllTrails) - A peaceful trail ending with almost the same south facing picturesque view as Angel’s Landing except you are about 700ft higher in elevation. Several condors circled right overhead.
The Narrows: Riverside Walk to “Wall Street” (6 miles roundtrip) - Trekking through canyons in the knee/waist high water of the Virgin River required advanced planning and preparation but sure was worth the effort.
After hiking the 1 mile of Riverside Walk (from the last Zion shuttle stop/Temple of Sinawava to the entrance of the Narrows), we geared up and waded an additional 2 miles into the Narrows for a total of 6 miles roundtrip (3hrs 20min). It took one hour in the water to reach the Orderville Canyon fork at which point we explored the lefthand (“Wall Street”) side of the fork and narrower righthand (“Orderville”) side for about 25 minutes before returning.
We rented waterproof boots, socks, pants, and a hiking stick from Zion Outfitters in Springdale right before the Zion entrance for $50 per person. You can rent/pickup the gear the night before between 4-7pm and return prior to 7pm the day of your hike.
This hike requires extreme caution due to flash flooding. Check the weather and follow all local advisories.
Bryce Canyon National Park:
Geology and erosion combined to create Bryce’s marvelous rock formations. While Zion rests at about 4,000ft elevation, Bryce reaches 8,000-9,000ft at its highest points. The bottom layer of rock at Bryce Canyon is the top layer at Zion, and the bottom layer at Zion is the top layer at the Grand Canyon.
Compared to Zion’s nearly 150,000 acres, Bryce (36,000 acres) is much smaller, and we were able to see much of it in about 5-6 hours. The park has an 18-mile scenic drive (one-way) with many viewpoints along the way.
Here is a recent map of the park.
Some of the most memorable viewpoints were Bryce Point, Natural Bridge, and Rainbow Point.
Navajo Loop and Queen’s Garden Trail (3 mile loop 640ft elevation gain AllTrails) featured a steep descent/ascent into the hoodoos and other thrilling features at the bottom. The hike begins at Sunset Point.
Capitol Reef National Park:
Capitol Reef is a hidden gem. Situated in the center of Southern Utah, I believe it often gets passed over in conversation by travelers from the west (too far from Zion/Bryce) and from the east alike (too far out of the reach of Canyonlands/Arches/Moab). I am sure Utah locals know of its magic. Photos do not do this park justice. Apart from its incredible rock formations millions of years in the making, Capitol Reef has two famous Cottonwood trees that are over 100 years old.
Goosenecks Overlook peers a dramatic 800ft below to Sulphur Creek, a tributary of the Colorado River, which over millions of years has shaped the canyon in tight curves exposing layers of Kaibab Limestone over 270 million years old.
Capitol Gorge to Tanks Trail (2 miles roundtrip AllTrails) is spectacular as is the 8 mile scenic drive required to reach the trailhead. The Tanks are about a 0.5 mile rock scramble with a steep ascent to a water pool if you should feel so inclined. It’s really just a ton of fun to play on these rocks.
Grand Wash Road was also an excellent unpaved road to a trailhead. At the turnaround point on the road back you can see Cassidy Arch high up to your right. A sign points to it.
Visit the Gifford House for an historic homestead, pies, and other goods.
PAGE, ARIZONA
We spent one overnight in Page (2hr40min from St. George) which provided better access to these sights and trails:
Pariah Townsite - Located here on I-89 E between Kanab, UT and Page. We drove 20 minutes / 7 miles (one-way) to the end of the unpaved dirt road (AWD/4x4 preferred) and saw beautiful scenery along the way including the site of the old town, cemetery, and, at the end, the Pariah River which was dried up at the time. A nice drive if you have extra time.
Horseshoe Bend - Short 0.75 mile ADA accessible walk to a scenic viewpoint where Colorado River dramatically bends around a rock formation. 10 minutes from Page.
Cottonwood Canyon Road is an unpaved dirt and gravel road (AWD/4x4 required) off I-89 E between St George/Kanab and Page that takes you into Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. We drove 50 minutes (~25 miles) north to the Cottonwood Narrows North Trailhead where a beautiful slot canyon was almost immediately accessible. All different types of rock. Some perfect for bouldering. Others that break up in your hands. Hiked in about 15-20 minutes and back. Here is a 3.7mi roundtrip AllTrails version of this hike that begins at the South Trailhead. This hike and so many more to explore along this road.
Wire Pass to Buckskin Gulch (5.6 miles roundtrip AllTrails) - One of the absolute best hikes of the trip. The Wire Pass trailhead is 2hr25min east of St. George and 1hr west of Page, AZ. This is a slot canyon hike and requires advance permitting and extreme caution due to flash flooding. Check the weather and follow local advisories. Be safe!
