Acadia National Park (Maine)

Hiking
Written By Steven Attanasio

A Special Place Indeed

 

Acadia National Park — established in 1916 — was the first national park on the East Coast. Interspersed within and adjacent to private land, Acadia totals 47,000 acres (compared to: Bryce ~35,000, Zion ~148,000, Yosemite ~750,000.) It is the first national park whose land was donated entirely by private citizens, including John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who donated more than 10,000 of the acres and is responsible for building 45 miles of 16-foot wide carriage roads connected by 16 stone bridges throughout the park that are used today for walking, biking, horseback riding, and cross-country skiing. The park is primarily located on Mount Desert Island but also includes parts of the Schoodic Peninsula to the northeast and Isle Au Haut to the southwest. Together the park contains more than 125 miles of hiking trails and 64 miles of protected coastline. Here you will find crashing waves and walls of granite; thick birch forests that the original inhabitants — the Wabanaki “People of the Dawnland” — used to build wigwams, beautiful canoes, baskets and decorative items using the abundant porcupine quills dyed to vibrant colors; breathtaking views of islands spread out amid various bays and over 20 picturesque mountains (Cadillac Mountain — at just 1,530ft — is the highest peak both in the park and along the Atlantic Coast); thick pine forests with fine smelling spruce; and spectacular sunrises over the expansive and uninterrupted Atlantic Ocean. Acadia National Park is a special, special place.

 

Acadia is located along the Maine coastline about 3 hours northeast of Portland and 1 hour southeast of Bangor. We landed and rented a car at the Bangor International Airport and stayed four days and three nights at an AirBnb on Mount Desert Island near Echo Lake in late September 2022.

Below you will find some of the most memorable hikes and suggestions on how to make the most of your time in Acadia, divided into three main sections (Click to skip ahead):

The Schoodic Peninsula

Mount Desert Island

Isle Au Haut

But first, here are some….

Logistics

  • National Parks Entry Pass: Most national parks charge $35 per vehicle for a 7-day pass. If you plan on visiting longer than 7 days and/or visiting more than one national park over the next 12 months, the Interagency / “America the Beautiful” Annual Pass costs about $80 and provides unlimited access to 2,000 federal recreation sites including all national parks. You can purchase the annual pass online in advance or in person at your local REI store as well as most national park / federal recreation site entrances.

  • Maps: I recommend purchasing the National Geographic Acadia National Park Map (212) from 2019. This 1:35,000 scale topographical map helps create a coherent picture of the sporadically placed areas of Acadia National Park and more easily locate trailheads and points of interest. Available at REI and Amazon for $15.

  • Island Explorer Shuttle System: Acadia offers a free and intricate shuttle bus system called the Island Explorer that operates from late-June through mid-October. We did not use the shuttle because most of the routes operated more or less from 9am-5pm and we often needed to arrive/depart from locations outside of those hours. Nevertheless, the system is extensive and allows access across many parts of Mount Desert Island including Bar Harbor, and the Schoodic Peninsula should you wish to take advantage of it.

  • One-Way Roads: There are two one-way loop roads in the park, one on Mount Desert Island called “Park Loop Road,” and another on the Schoodic Peninsula called “Schoodic Loop Road” which require extra care while navigating/planning an itinerary. These roads will be highlighted in the sections below where applicable.

  • Ferries:

    • The Schoodic Peninsula can be reached from Bar Harbor by car in about 1 hour 15 minutes or by the seasonal Downeast Windjammer Ferry in about 45 minutes for ~$20 one-way.

    • Isle Au Haut is an island, only accessible by boat. The Isle Au Haut “Mail Boat” Ferry Service offers reliable and unique transportation to Isle Au Haut departing from Stonington, ME — a 90 minute drive from Bar Harbor. There is year-round service from Stonington to Isle Au Haut Town Landing (40 minutes) and seasonal service to Acadia’s Duck Harbor (an additional 20 minutes). A one-way tickets cost $20 and are purchased in person at the dock before departure on a first-come-first serve basis. Call or email the Ferry Service at (207) 367-5193 themailboat@isleauhaut.com to confirm departures in the case of inclement weather (for example, a high winds advisory).

The Schoodic Peninsula (Day Trip)

The Schoodic Peninsula is the only section of Acadia technically part of the mainland and — replete with rocky coast — offers visitors a more secluded and unique perspective of the Mount Desert Island skyline to the west and Atlantic Ocean to the south.

“This section of the park includes prime examples of what geologists call dikes - prominent black bands of basalt in between the granite. Eons ago, magma intruded into underground fractures in the granite under great pressure, then cooled and hardened into the black basaltic dikes.” — Falcon Guides: Hiking Acadia National Park (Dolores King and Dan Ring)

We drove to the Schoodic Peninsula directly from the Bangor International Airport (~90 minutes) and arrived around 2:00pm to spend a few hours exploring. The peninsula is reached a couple of miles after Winter Harbor via a 6-mile one-way loop road that passes several trailheads and viewpoints.

This Google Map shows the specific locations we explored originating from Winter Harbor.

Remember that the order matters due to the one-way road:

Stop 1 — The Sundew Trail

1.25mi, 100ft elevation gain

Hidden within a former U.S. Navy base that is now the Schoodic Institute and Welcome Center, the Sundew Trail was our first hike in Acadia. It is a short and easy trail with breathtaking views of crashing waves, Mount Desert Island, and Cadillac Mountain in the distance. There are peaceful wooden benches set up along the rocks at each of the three spurs that take you out to the shoreline and back.

This AllTrails link shares some helpful information about the trail. However, in terms of your route, I recommend following the counter-clockwise path indicated by the black arrows in this image below:

Park in the South Parking Lot adjacent to Eliot Hall and start the hike from the Sundew trailhead west of the building, exploring the short out-and-back spurs along the trail until reaching the pavilion near the North Parking Lot. Return to the South Parking Lot / Eliot Hall by walking first along the road and then across the quiet path indicated by the black arrow in the image above. The entire loop as described will clock in at about 1.25 miles.

Stop 2 — Schoodic Point Viewpoint

The Schoodic Point Viewpoint is less than 3 minutes south of Eliot Hall. After exiting the South Parking Lot back onto Acadia Drive, turn right onto Arey Cove Road to reach the Schoodic Point Parking Lot for another vantage point of the surrounding area and the Atlantic.

Stop 3 — Schoodic Head Loop

2.4mi 486ft elevation gain Custom AllTrails

For a more challenging hike with some elevation and rewarding views, head back onto Schoodic Loop Road and to the Blueberry Hill Parking Lot* next. The first 0.75 mile along the Alder Trail is relatively flat through a grassy wooded area and then a gravel road. The Schoodic Head Trail then ascends about 370ft in a half mile to an open ledge with a bird’s eye view of Mount Desert Island and the surrounding bays and ocean. From this location you may also notice the large water tower to the south from the area where you hiked the Sundew Trail earlier. Return to the road via a southeast descent along the Anvil Trail, named for a 180ft foot rock with steps about 0.8 miles into the trail. When you reach Schoodic Loop Road, turn right and walk less than two-tenths of a mile along the road back to the Blueberry Hill parking lot.

*Note if for whatever reason you miss the Blueberry Hill parking lot or it’s full, there are two small roadside pullouts on Schoodic Loop Road beyond the parking lot that can accommodate 2-3 cars. The first is along the road between the Alder and Anvil trailheads. The second is just beyond the Anvil trailhead. We actually parked at this second pullout and started the first few minutes of the hike heading south/southwest along the road until we reached the Alder trailhead.

Stop 4 —The Pickled Wrinkle

After exploring the Schoodic Peninsula for 3-4 hours, we stopped for dinner at the Pickled Wrinkle in Birch Harbor on a friend’s recommendation. It’s a great local restaurant serving burgers, pizza, and more.

Mount Desert Island

Mount Desert Island is the largest area of Acadia National Park. Here are some of the highlights:

Jordan Pond

Jordan Pond is gorgeous and one of the most iconic sections of the park for good reason.

Here’s three:

  • The Jordan Pond Path (3.1 miles, 42ft elevation AllTrails) is a wonderful walk at any time of day especially along its eastern bank. The park suggests (conservatively) providing 2.5 hours for the loop; AllTrails estimates closer to an hour on average. Either way, this place is meant to be enjoyed. Take your time and embrace the calm of the water and mountains around you.

    Note: Although it is level, the trail changes from an easy compact walking surface on the east side of the lake to a rocky and then planked trail on the west side of the lake. The split-log planks can be slippery when wet.

  • The southern end of Jordan Pond is also a major junction for Carriage Roads used for walking, biking, and horseback riding. The map below provides more insight into this feature of the park:

  • Jordan Pond is also home to the Jordan Pond House, an idyllic place to grab a bite to eat and take in the view. Famous for its tea and popovers (light rolls served with butter and jelly), the Jordan Pond House offers a full menu of soups, salads, sandwiches, and more in a magical setting.

The Jordan Pond House goes back to 1847 as a small mill and farmhouse. At the end of the 19th century, summer vacationers began coming to the area and a small restaurant was opened. The first tea and popovers were served around 1895. John D. Rockefeller, Jr. purchased the property in 1928 and donated it to the National Park Service in 1940. The original operators continued to run the restaurant until their retirement in 1945 after 50 continuous years. In 1946, Rockefeller began a company to run the Jordan Pond House restaurant and ensure that the tradition of luncheon, tea, and popovers would continue. A fire in 1979 destroyed the original building and a new building was constructed in 1982.

It is open from 11am-5pm and the shortest waits for tables are reportedly before 11:30am or after 4pm. We arrived around 1pm on a Monday and waited 35 minutes. The host handed us an electronic buzzer to notify us when our table was ready and we walked around the nearby area including the Observation Deck upstairs and the Gift Shop. If you are pressed for time, there is a Grab-and-Go station upstairs where you can pick up a bite and enjoy your meal from seats along the Observation Deck. The Ginger Beer (non-alcoholic) from the Grab-and-Go is delicious!

A Note on Parking: There are multiple parking lots all located at the southern end of Jordan Pond: a large double parking lot for Jordan Pond and a smaller parking lot immediately adjacent to the Jordan Pond House. When we arrived there was a sign that the Jordan Pond House parking lot was full. We dropped off a member of our group to check us into the Pond House while the rest of us slowly circled the parking lot in the car. We were able to get a spot in about 10 minutes. If the parking lot is too crowded with other cars employing the same tactic, there should be parking available in the larger lots which are still only a short walk to the Pond House.

The Ocean Path

The 27-mile Park Loop Road (one-way traffic for 3/4’s of the route) provides access to much of the eastern portion of Mount Desert Island. The 2.25 mile stretch from Sand Beach to Otter Point is a must-see:

Here are three ways to experience it:

  • Walk: Park in the Sand Beach Parking Lot and walk the out-and-back Ocean Path Trail (4.5 miles, 375ft, AllTrails) — a graded gravel path and forest floor situated between the road and the ocean, and least crowded in the early morning or late afternoon.

  • Shuttle/Walk: A mixed itinerary using the Island Explorer Shuttle. Park at the Sand Beach Parking Lot and take the one-way shuttle one mile to Thunder Hole. If you walk out to Otter Point and back to Sand Beach from this stop, the walk would be 3.5 miles instead of 4.5 miles.

Points of Interest:

  • Thunder Hole is a carved out inlet along the rocky eastern shoreline of Mount Desert Island. When a storm or the turning tide forces waves into this narrow channel, the air escapes with a thunderous reverberation that is both deafening and thrilling. The best time to experience this natural phenomenon is one to two hours before high tide when the waves are building and crashing into the shoreline. You can use the tide times from Bar Harbor here to plan your visit. Thunder Hole can be accessed via a nearby parking lot. It is also a shuttle stop and along the Ocean Path.

  • Otter Cliff is a dramatic point from which you just might find rock climbers emerging from the depths of the ocean below onto the cliff upon which you stand. Otter Cliff is also accessible via a nearby parking lot and right along the Ocean Path.

  • Otter Point is similar to Schoodic Point. It is the southernmost tip of this section of Mount Desert Island and offers excellent views of the ocean. It is the turnaround point for the Ocean Path and likewise accessible via a nearby parking lot.

Any of these locations would be ideal for sunrises; Otter Point for both sunrise and sunset.

Beal’s Lobster Pier & Sunset at Bass Harbor Head Light Station

If you happen to find yourself in the vicinity of Southwest and Bass Harbors on Mount Desert Island toward the latter part of the day, here are two nice stops that you might consider:

Beal’s Lobster Pier

I cannot say that I know much about lobster, especially Maine lobster. Who am I? A guy from Brooklyn, New York who has only been to Maine twice in his life. But what I can say is that the people working at Beal’s Lobster Pier in Southwest Harbor could not have been any more welcoming and customer oriented. They were overwhelmingly kind and efficient and, while their prices may be high, the quality of the food and service was outstanding, not to mention the views. A lobster tank sits at the front counter and lobsters are cooked fresh. Drink orders are passed on to the bar before you even get there, and delicious corn on the cob is cooked in the same boiling water as the lobsters. The lobster roll itself was outrageously delicious. The fries were solid. Even the salads were good. How does a lobster place also have a good salad?

Bass Harbor Head Light Station

About 15 minutes (5 miles) south of Beal’s is the Bass Harbor Head Light Station — an extremely popular location for watching the sunset. A small parking lot adjacent to the lighthouse is the only public parking available. Unfortunately, too many people often attempt to enjoy the sunset and long lines of cars queue up along a sole and otherwise quiet road to the lighthouse. If you cannot arrive to this scenic area well in advance of sunset, it is perhaps better to not come for the sunset and/or perhaps visit at a time other than sunset. There are so many beautiful places to watch the sunset in Acadia, and dealing with frantic traffic and signs from locals threatening towing for illegal parking is certainly not part of the gig. Nevertheless, the lighthouse, dating back to 1858, is a cool site that’s worth checking out. There are two short paths from the parking lot. The near path takes you right down to the lighthouse. (Be one of the good people who obeys the signs and stays off the grass). The far path wraps around to a rocky outcropping at some distance from the light station providing the unique and famous perspective of the lighthouse with the setting sun in the background.

Sunrise at Cadillac Mountain

Cadillac Mountain (1,530ft) is the park’s highest peak and the tallest mountain along the Atlantic Coast. It’s known for one of the most spectacular sunrises in the United States.

Below is everything you need to know for planning your visit:

  • Sunrise Time: Use this site to check the sunrise time on the date you plan to go. There is an adjustable calendar towards the middle of the page. Aim to reach the summit 20-30 minutes before sunrise.

  • Weather: Use this site for an accurate forecast at the summit. You can expand a given day for hourly forecasts. If you are fortunate to have several days in Acadia, plan to see the Cadillac sunrise on a day when the sky is most clear and lookout for particularly cold temperatures or high winds.

There are at least three well-known approaches to the summit of Cadillac Mountain:

Approach 1

Drive via Cadillac Summit Road

This 3-mile scenic drive to the top of the highest peak in Acadia National Park features parking, restrooms, and overlooks connected by a paved walk at the summit. Vehicle reservations are required from May through October. Apply for reservations on Recreation.gov. The cost is $6 per vehicle. Thirty percent of vehicle reservations are made available 90 days ahead of each date. The remaining 70 percent are released at 10:00am EST two days ahead and are generally sold within minutes.

Approach 2

Hike the North Ridge Trail

4.2 miles, 1,128ft elevation, AllTrails

There are no reservations required for hiking to the summit of Cadillac Mountain. The most popular route known as the North Ridge Trail roughly follows Cadillac Summit Road. This out-and-back trail is rated as hard with granite steps, forest floor, and exposed rock ledges. You will reach the summit in about 2.1 miles from the Cadillac North Ridge Trail Parking Lot. This hike should only be attempted by experienced hikers familiar with navigating in the dark via headlamp. You will have to get to bed early and wake up in the middle of the night, and plan ahead to start at the trailhead with sufficient time to reach the summit safely before sunrise.

Approach 3

Hike the South Ridge Trail

6.7 miles, 1,548ft elevation, AllTrails

This longer approach from the south is considered moderate. Also an out-and-back trail, the South Ridge Trail reaches the summit in about 3.5 miles from the Cadillac South Ridge Trail Parking Lot. A similar warning and precaution applies here as it did for the North Ridge Trail above.

The Ultimate Approach

There is one more approach to Cadillac that the majority of hikers might not ever consider . . .

Do not attempt this plan unless you have experience hiking and navigating at night, are trained in wilderness first aid, and are comfortable scrambling with four points of contact on steep, uneven, and potentially slick rock and across exposed granite ledges. The West Face Trail includes nearly a one mile constant and steep scramble.

Cadillac Sunrise West Face Loop Via Jordan Pond

7.43 miles, 1,696ft elevation, Custom AllTrails

Involving a nighttime ascent of the West Face Trail, this loop is considered extremely difficult due to its length, steep and exposed ascents, and trail navigation, the most difficult of which is largely done in darkness. Each member of the group should have a headlamp with fresh batteries as well as sufficient food/snacks, water, and layers. You must also have a physical topographical map of the area. Do not rely solely on GPS and/or your phone.

We went to sleep around 8:30pm-9pm the prior evening and woke up at 3am.

Sunrise was scheduled for 6:25am…

We left our AirBnb around 4:00am and reached the parking lot of the Bubble Divide Trailhead at 4:30am. (If you wish to shift about 0.3 miles of the hike to the pre-sunrise section of the trail, you can proceed no more than a minute further south on Park Loop Road beyond the Bubble Divide Parking Lot to the next small car pullout on the right. This area can accommodate 3-4 cars and should be empty at this time of night).

From either starting point, you will be heading west from your car to connect to the Jordan Pond Carry Trail which heads north along relatively easy forest floor for 0.6-0.8 miles before intersecting with the Eagle Lake Carriage Road.

[Side Note: You might be wondering to yourself: “The purpose of this hike is to see the sunrise at Cadillac Mountain, and to do so via a night hike of the West Face Trail whose trailhead originates at Bubble Pond. So why should I start this hike at Bubble Rock instead of Bubble Pond?” Great question. The reason is that the Bubble Pond parking lot is closed to personal vehicles during the months of May - October when the Island Explorer Shuttle is operating. Unfortunately, the shuttle does not start running until well after sunrise, but the parking lot remains closed regardless. So, the next closest parking lot to Bubble Pond that is open to personal vehicles is Bubble Rock.]

We were fortunate to do this hike under a new moon (September 25, 2022) and a crystal clear night. The constellations were painted across the sky. We used our white lights for the Jordan Pond Carry section to avoid roots and uneven ground but once we stepped onto the 16-foot wide carriage road we switched to red lights to really take in the stars.

After approximately 1 mile progressing east along the Eagle Lake Carriage Road, and 1.6-1.8 miles from the start of our hike, we reached the West Face Trailhead near the Bubble Pond parking lot. (This lot has a restroom should you need it.) We were about 40 minutes into the hike with 80 minutes or so until sunrise.

The West Face Trail is steep from the start. It had rained earlier in the week so certain sections were slick. The trail is well-marked with Acadia’s standard blue painted trail markers. These solid rectangular markers are found on both trees and rocks and will often be oriented in the direction of the next marker if there is a turn or a scramble ahead in whichever direction. The steep section is about 0.9 miles followed by 0.5 miles of a traverse across a rolling summit to link up with Cadillac Summit Road and the visitors who drove to the top.

After enjoying the sunrise, we returned 4.3 miles or so down highly scenic and ever-changing terrain primarily along the South Ridge Trail, Canon Brook Trail, and Bubble & Jordan Ponds Path, including a beautiful one mile stretch along the eastern edge of the Jordan Pond Path back to our car.

We were able to complete the descent in about 95 minutes from 6:35am-8:10am via a combination of fast hiking and jogging because we were crazy enough to attempt (and succeed) at driving 90 minutes to Stonington, ME that same morning to catch at 10:00am ferry to Isle Au Haut. It was one of those rare and special days where you feel like you stole some time back from the universe.

The Cadillac sunrise was spectacular. But remember that you can find a spectacular sunrise or sunset just about anywhere. There’s no specific location that you need to stand to enjoy it, and like most things, it’s more about who you’re with than where you are.

The Iron Rung Hikes

There is one more special treat about Acadia that I reserved for the end of this post. There are at least four “iron rung” hikes in Acadia which involve strategically placed iron rungs, ladders, and handholds (in addition to traditional rock scrambling) that allow hikers to traverse and scale terrain that would otherwise require rock climbing equipment. The two most popular routes are the Precipice and Beehive trails, both of which are accessed via Park Loop Road. The more difficult of the two is the Precipice Trail, and it is the first trail you will encounter along the one-way road.

These hikes require a high degree of strength, flexibility, and endurance. While not particularly long distance-wise, they entail extended periods of exposure on narrow ledges and sheer rock faces. There are places where turning around is not an option. It is also possible that you will get stuck in front of or behind other hikers if the trail is crowded. Do not attempt either of these hikes if you have a fear of heights.

The Precipice Trail

2.1 miles, 1,050ft elevation gain, All Trails

This was one of the most enjoyable and exciting hikes I’ve done. The Precipice Trail climbs for about 0.4 mile before reaching a junction with the Orange & Black Path where you should bear left (southwest) to continue on the Precipice Trail to the summit of Champlain Mountain (another 0.5 miles from the junction).

The view at the top of Champlain Mountain is wonderful. There is an excellent viewpoint about 0.1-0.2 miles from the true summit where we decided to take our break. The view east is spectacular and on this particular day we were protected from the wind. The summit had equally breathtaking views.

When we were ready to descend, we took the Champlain North Ridge Trail (which is a bit difficult to follow at first) north until the intersection with the Orange & Black Path, where we turned right (southeast). After descending stone steps we reached a fork where we could turn either left (east) towards Park Loop Road or right (south) along the Orange & Black Path which would eventually reconnect with that steep lower 0.4 mile section of the Precipice Trail. We decided to turn left (east) to Park Loop Road and walk 0.5 miles south along the road back to our car at the Precipice Trailhead. This saved us both valuable time and energy, creating an easy loop to conclude this fantastic trail rather than a “lollipop” retracing rocks and iron rungs that we had already climbed.

 

The Beehive Trail

1.5 miles, 510ft elevation gain All Trails

The Beehive Trail is “Precipice-Light” with an added surprise. It is shorter and less of an elevation gain with views and obstacles that still compete with the Precipice Trail. This is a super popular trail in an extremely popular section of the park. We parked in the Sand Beach parking lot and crossed the road to reach the “Bowl Trailhead” which leads to the “Beehive Trailhead” after 0.2 miles.

The surprise is a beautiful mountain pond known as “The Bowl” on the backend of the loop at about the 1 mile mark of the hike. It is so peaceful and crystal clear; I washed my face in the crisp cold water. The trail follows the edge of the pond before returning to the trailhead.

Other Iron Rungs

Here are two additional iron rung hikes that we did not have a chance to explore:

  • Beech Cliff Ladder and Canada Cliff Loop (1.8 miles, 492ft elevation gain, All Trails) — This hike originates from the end of the Echo Lake Beach parking lot. Echo Lake Beach looked like it would be a fun spot in the summertime:

  • Jordan Cliffs Trail Via Spring Trail (3.5 miles, 660ft elevation, Custom AllTrails) The “iron rung” focus of this hike originating from the Jordan Pond House is the Jordan Cliffs section. This version completes the loop via the western edge of the Jordan Pond Path but there are numerous alternative routes such as Penobscot Mountain to the west and The Bubbles to the east.

Additional Resources

Isle Au Haut (Day Trip)

Isle Au Haut is breathtaking. Even the journey to the island is special. I felt like I was in another country. The journey requires planning. The only way to access Isle Au Haut is via boat and that means for most of us the Mail Boat Ferry departing from Stonington, ME — a 90 minute drive from Mount Desert Island. At the time of writing, a one-way ticket cost $20 ($40 roundtrip per person) and vehicle parking at the dock was $12. There are only 2-3 trips per day.

We arrived at the dock in Stonington around 9:40am for a 10:00am ferry to Duck Harbor via Isle Au Haut Town Landing. Park in the few spaces in front of the small hut outside the main parking lot to purchase your ticket. Someone will then direct you as to where to park inside the lot. There is a restroom inside the parking lot. Before departing, the captain introduced his crew to the passengers on the dock and provided a detailed overview of what was ahead.

The ferry ride is spectacular. You pass through a series of beautiful islands as you head south, dodging lobster buoys the whole way down. There are two main stops on the island: the Isle Au Town Landing (40 minutes from Stonington) and Duck Harbor (an additional 20 minutes).

Isle Au Haut is rustic. There are private and somewhat luxurious homes on the north side of the island, however there is not much available to visitors in the town itself. A four mile trail south connects the Town Landing with Duck Harbor, which is a seasonal stop, but when the ferry is running to Duck Harbor, there is every reason to remain on the ferry as it continues to Duck Harbor: First, the ferry will provide you with an amazing up-close view of the Robinson Point Lighthouse, and second, the best (and majority of) hikes originate from Duck Harbor.

When we reached Duck Harbor we were welcomed by a National Park Service ranger named Rebecca who gave disembarking passengers an excellent introduction to and safety overview of Duck Harbor. Rebecca was a veteran ranger who had spent years stationed at Yellowstone and Mount Rainier National Park and was now posted at the Ranger Station near Isle Au Haut Town Landing. She described the beauty of seeing the weather roll in and out of the island, dense fogs lifting from the water revealing the surrounding area like an opening curtain or a sunrise. Her parents were in town visiting her. All of the passengers appreciated her knowledge and kindness. She gave a detailed layout of what was possible in terms of hiking and degrees of difficulty before our return ferry at 4:45pm, but her best advice was, and I paraphrase, “And if you decide to just sit on a nearby rock or picnic bench for a few hours and take it all in, you have had a successful visit. You do not need to climb any cliffs or cover a certain distance to have experienced this place.” She also said that if you ever find yourself hovering over a rock on a trail so much that you feel you’re flying, it’s okay to get on your butt and scooch down the trail. Sound advice for all.

Duck Harbor has a picnic area and a clean restroom a short walk from the dock. About 6 minutes further uphill from this area is a water pump with potable water that is tested by NPS daily. The dock also provides access to a coveted campground with 5 pristine lean-tos and restroom facilities which I had heard from multiple locals books out a year in advance and is seemingly impossible to reserve. Other than these few facilities, Duck Harbor is wild, untouched, and inviting. There are no shops or stores. You will need to carry all of your own food and clothing. This is the part that requires planning. Think of everything you might need the night before and make sure it’s with you in the car to Stonington and on the ferry. Bring more than you think you might need (an extra layer, an extra sandwich) so that you are comfortable and content. Mosquito repellant would be wise depending on the month you visit. Repel Lemon Eucalyptus is a great natural brand that works.

It’s also very important to not miss the last ferry off Duck Harbor. They will not wait for you. We arrived at Duck Harbor around 11:15am and had 5.5 hours until our 4:45pm departure to explore. Below is what we chose to do, but like Ranger Rebecca said, it’s all up to you…

 

Western Head, Cliffs, Goat and Duck Harbor Mountain Loop

4.4 miles, 561ft elevation AllTrails

This hike was so beautiful that after a while I just stopped taking pictures. Weaving up and down cliffs and in and out of beaches and forests, the majority of the trail was along the coast until we made the steep but short ascent to the top of Duck Harbor Mountain. If you are looking for a shorter and less arduous hike, the Mail Boat crew and/or NPS rangers will provide you with an excellent map that shows distances and topography for each of the trails accessible from Duck Harbor so you can plan your own adventure.

Our trip to Isle Au Haut was a memorable one. We met wonderful people from the ferry crew and our fellow passengers to the workers on the docks and the National Park rangers. If it is at all possible for you to work this adventure into your Acadia itinerary, I could not recommend it more highly — a truly unique experience in an already wonderful place.

 

People Who Came Before Us — The Wabanaki

The Abbe Museum

Over 10,000 Native people currently live in Maine. Most are Wabanaki – a confederacy of Nations that today consists of the four federally recognized tribes: Penobscot, Passamaquoddy, Micmac, and Maliseet. The Abbe Museum in Bar Harbor is a small but informative museum honoring the voice of the Wabanaki people, both past and present. It was accepted as a Smithsonian Affiliate in 2018. The museum contains historical information as well as displays of the exquisite craftsmanship that the Wabanaki practiced using the resources the land presented, including birch bark and porcupine quills to make canoes and weave baskets and other ornamental items.

While it is significant that a minority of wealthy citizens had the foresight in the early-1900s to donate private land to the National Park Service to protect its beauty and ensure access to all people, it is equally significant to remember there was a time before that land was made private, when people lived here who believed the earth’s resources were not to be owned but rather respected, protected, and maintained in balance with nature.

Learn more about the Wabanaki here.

 

As you can see from the mere handful of experiences contained in this post, there is so much to learn about and explore in Acadia National Park. I hope that you have a wonderful visit.

Steven Attanasio
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