Jackson Hole (Wyoming)
Skiing at Jackson Hole
One of the most iconic places to ski in the United States. A great skier once told me:
“Explore, don’t try to follow trails; you will miss what makes Jackson Hole great. Good advice for the whole mountain is to always stay a bit longer upon whatever ridge or shoulder you're riding before you drop in. People tend to get impatient and drop in too early and those lines get chewed up.”
Here are some of the lifts and lines that were memorable, intended for experienced skiers. Conditions are ever changing but for what it’s worth:
Thunder Quad:
The most convenient lift on the mountain with lots to ski.
Laramie Bowl from Thunder (or Sublette).
“Broken Goggles” from Thunder. Not on map. When you get off the lift, head straight (“up” the mountain) for 100ft towards the cliffs in front of you then traverse looker’s right to last set of trees and drop in.
After fresh powder (once the easily lift accessible trails get cut up) ski from the top of Thunder down to the Gondola via Riverton Bowl and Lower Tram Line. Stay high right on the ridge/shoulder on the upper part of Riverton.
Hoops Gap is super steep but is usually left untouched, probably best in-bounds pitch on the mountain.
Sublette Lift:
Hike the Headwall. Take Sublette Lift to Tensleep Traverse to Cirque then 15-minute boot pack hike. Entered Headwall to the right about 100 yards from top of hike. Need to avoid rocks and proceed cautiously into chute between rocks to the left and tree to the right. Waist high powder.
Woods from Sublette (Bivouac, etc) into Hobacks or Cheyenne Gully (which requires a small narrow “hike” to get into Hobacks or Lower Sublette Ridge). The Hobacks are awesome after fresh snow.
Ski Pepi's Run off of Sublet lift, just keep staying left high on the ridge. If you're feeling up to it and the snow conditions are good hit the Alta Shoots, the 3rd shoot is often forgotten and not as steep.
Bridger Gondola:
Woolsey Woods is a key glades area.
Apres Vous:
Saratoga Bowl off of Apres Vous is a great place to find powder after it's been cut off because it's low on the mountain and ignored.
Tram:
Rendezvous Bowl is the most common route down from the Tram. Wide open. Reasonably steep. A fun place to get some turns.
Have a waffle or a drink at Corbet’s Cabin. If the weather is nice make sure to enjoy the view. The top of the Tram provides access to extensive backcountry terrain including the Cody Bowl. Before you ski down peer over Corbet’s Couloir. If you’re feeling courageous the true reward of dropping into Corbet’s is the skiing afterwards. Tons of powder blows in that slot and it does not get skied very often. A great annual event called the Kings & Queens of Corbet’s is held each winter where some of the most talented skiers in town fearlessly launch themselves off into the couloir in style.
Note: If there has not been snow recently, it’s best to ski lines that are north facing such as the North Hobacks and Bivouac. North facing terrain will be more consistent since it does not see the sun, and thus does not suffer as much from freeze/thaw conditions. The Tram is heading west as it ascends the mountain and “north” is oriented with the right edge of the trail map.
Food on the Mountain:
Rendezvous Lodge at the top of Bridger Gondola has great pizza as well as a sit down restaurant.
Mangy Moose - An institution. Live music. Restaurant and saloon.
Osteria - Finer dining for lunch and dinner. Reasonably priced.
Other Places to Ski:
Keep an eye on Grand Targhee over the pass. They often get larger dumps than Jackson Hole. Only about 75 minute drive (Cat Skiing is nice as well but not very steep).
Skier Friendly Accommodations
A nice lodge decorated almost exclusively with the work of Thomas Mangelsen. Warm-up for the ski day in the gym which includes a treadmill, Peloton bike, and weights. Restore your muscles and prepare for the next day in the clean relaxing hot tub after a long day on the slopes. Restaurant on site with good food. Inn is located one block from START bus stop #49 which takes 30 minutes to the heart of Jackson Hole Ski Resort. The front desk provides free bus passes daily. Overnight rates range from $150-$300+/night for 2-4 people.
Exchange the frills for a 1 minute walk to the Tram. Rates of $200 per night for 3-4 people. Two-story lobby has free tea and coffee, billiards, ping pong, shuffleboard, chess, checkers, tons of board games, backcountry maps and those of the Tetons and Greater Yellowstone Area, a fireplace, TV, places to lounge, tables to work/eat, a place to wax your skis, refrigerators, kitchen pots/pans/plates/utensils with two hot plates, and $1.50 washer/dryer. There are multiple stores on the mountain (e.g. The Bodega, The General Store) for purchasing basic groceries.
Other Must Sees
Town of Jackson
A unique and special town that is very walkable. The reliable START bus system is free within town.
Art: I believe there are over 30 art galleries in the town of Jackson. You can pick up a map from any of them. My two favorites are Trailside and Mangelsen.
Food:
Thai Me Up / Melvin Brewery - Delicious Thai food connected to a local brewery. #1 pick.
Jackson Drug - Old fashioned diner. Shakes. Burgers. Melts. Indulge yourself.
Persephone - Bakery. Great for breakfast.
Hand Fire Pizza - Lively pizza restaurant.
Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. You have to see it at least once in your life. Live music. Billiards. Bar. Steakhouse. Generally a cover charge around $20-$30.
Jackson Town Square has a very iconic antler arch that is beautiful at night. It is also the start of an annual sled dog race at the end of January that is really fun to watch!
National Museum of Wildlife Art
Worth spending at least an hour here. A special and tranquil place featuring famous pieces from Thomas Moran and others. There is a particular room towards the rear with large windows looking out into the Elk Refuge with binoculars on a tripod.
Grand Teton National Park
Organized Tour: We went with a company called Brushbuck Tours. Spend about 4 hours surveying wildlife and learning about the park in a van with a knowledgeable guide. Periodically got out to set up a scope. We were within 100 yards of majestic moose and saw bighorn sheep and other wildlife with the scope. Lunch was included at the Pizza Pasta Company inside the park. Our guide arranged for us to join a group sleigh ride in the afternoon inside the National Elk Refuge. If you decide to go with Brushbuck Tours, you should mention that. Otherwise, information is included below to do it on your own:
Seeing Grand Teton On Your Own: It may be equally fun to explore Grand Teton National Park in your own vehicle assuming you bring binoculars. If you do not see animals as you drive, look for locals' cars parked on the side of the road to tip you off. Go early in the morning as animals are most active at dawn and dusk. We saw moose and bighorn sheep among other wildlife driving along Gros Ventre Road and Antelope Flats Road. We stopped near the town of Kelly where there was a famous flood in 1925. There is a warm spring just north of it. I highlighted key locations along the route we drove with blue "binocular" icons on this shared Google Map. With the exception of the warm spring, these are not "destinations" but rather guidelines on the areas we saw wildlife. Consider a bite with a spectacular view of the Tetons at the Pizza Pasta Company. There was last a longstanding hootenanny on Mondays at 6pm of which I read about on the walls of the pizza place. Located in the town of Moose inside the park.
